Gen Z Want Sustainable Fashion
So How Come They‘re Not Buying it?
A recent instagram post by The Sustainable Fashion Forum posed the above question —
“Gen Z want sustainable fashion, so how come they’re not buying it?”
All research currently suggests that Gen Z’ers are demanding sustainable fashion, they’re just not buying it.
The term Sustainable Fashion is in itself, a misnomer. As the fashion academic Otto von Busch questions “what is it we want to sustain?”. And there isn’t one definitive meaning that everyone agrees on, therefore the industry is susceptible to Greenwashing.
The instagram post questioned their findings against the exponential rise of fast fashion brands such as Shein, Zara and H&M.
Shein are the current scourge of the sustainable fashion movement — and paradoxically, they are most popular with Generation Z.
It’s not hard to see why.
When I clicked on the site, the first pop-up promised me free shipping on “orders over £0.01”.
An instant hit of happiness.
So far, so unsustainable.
I don’t have to go too far to do my own research in this area.
My two teenage daughters are regular consumers of fast fashion.
Here in the UK, a revolving door of ASOS packages are delivered to our home — and often returned — on a weekly basis.
This happens despite my expert lectures on the unrealistically low retail price, versus the cost of the fabric, labels, packaging, postage and damage to the climate.
Not to mention the person’s wages who has skill-fully crafted said item.
It does not put them off.
In typical teenage fashion, their eyes glaze over and orders are placed regardless.
They are merely waiting for me to stop talking (cartoon-woman-on-the-other-end-of-the-phone style), so they can click BUY.
*sigh*
When I asked my elder daughter if she felt guilty about not doing more to help our ailing planet through her shopping habits, she immediately shot back with “Well, is our energy renewable?”
Er……No.
Why not?!
Well…. because the monthly tariffs have risen massively over the last few months and much as I’d like to have green energy in our home, the fact is we can’t afford it.
Psych
Ditto electric cars — for me, and ethically made fashion for her.
And this is where our love for the planet falls short, and economic reality kicks in.
As much as we want to change, we can’t afford it. The current economic system prevents it.
Limits to Growth — Economic System Change is Needed
In Limits to Growth, Donella Meadows discusses the need for alternative economic systems, in order to operate within the carrying capacity of the planet, never taking more resources than we can replenish.
Relating to fashion, this is the utopian sustainable dream.
But maybe it is just a dream?
The destructive nature of producing fabric, especially petroleum derived polyester, if we’re honest, is not worth the damage it causes.
Even organically produced cotton uses tonnes of water in its production and so is difficult to stay within Earth’s carrying capacity.
The honest truth is that we all — Gen Z included — should only wear clothes that have already been produced.
Call them pre-loved, vintage or plain old “second-hand” as my Generation X cohort did, the way to stay within the carrying capacity of the planet is to use what we already have. And not make any more.
It’s a big ask.
In the same way it is unfair that we are all now paying for the aftermath of the industrial revolution, Gen Z are expected to curtail their natural zeal for new “stuff” and only wear what others have cast aside.
Doing so would inevitably result in the total distruction of the fashion sector and the loss of millions of jobs — 430 million to be precise.
But there maybe another way….
Education, Education, Education
To borrow a phrase coined by the UK’s former — and now controversial Prime Minister Tony Blair, the answer lies in education.
I’ve written before about our collective lack of practical skills, and how this has led to a disconnection of knowledge, in how and by whom our clothes are made.
Many consumers — my own kids included, pay little attention to the fashion manufacturing process. Or to the fabric production process.
And why would you?
But while we can’t all be experts in every subject, it is important that we all are aware of the life cycle of our clothing.
In the same way we should understand the journey from fork to plate.
And herein lies the rub.
Consumers have little time to research brands they love. So are easy meat for greenwashers.
There is also the disconnect between knowing how a garment is made — because you’ve made one yourself — and not having the fainted idea of the skill involved.
They just appears online.
From Santa’s workshop.
CLICK!
Even designers are guilty of this. Many of them do not visit factories so are completely disconnected from the process.
My view is that practical skills should be mandatory in schools.
The life cycle of a garment should also be taught, in conjunction with Geography or even Economics — not just creative subjects - because we all wear clothes, and therefore have a vested interest. In addition, basic clothing repair skills should be taught, from sewing on a button to repairing a hem. This alone would stop so many clothes going to landfill. The wartime mantra of “MAKE DO & MEND” is apt for the age of sustainable fashion.
Schools could adopt left-field delivery methods such as Tik-Tok, for greater engagement, accessibility, as well as credibility.
Sustainable Fashion is a trend, but with a bit of education it could become the norm.
Fast Fashion, like smoking, could and SHOULD become socially unacceptable.
Education via social media platforms is essential.
When You Buy from a Small Business, the owner does a little happy dance.
There are plenty of Gen Z designer-makers who are reinventing the fashion industry.
By carefully sourcing deadstock* they are preventing fabric going into landfill.
*Deadstock fabrics have been over-ordered then discarded by other designers or retailers.
Others are using old bedsheets or other discarded fabrics and utilising them to produce dresses and patchwork quilted jackets.
All are beautiful, but none of them are cheap.
Deliberately slow rather than fast, garments made with love and made to last, cost time and therefore money. (Back to economics).
The designer has conceived the idea, created the design, drafted the pattern, made the sample, made another sample, then made the garment and put it out into the marketplace.
Usually, they will also photograph it, design a website, run their social media “department” and be customer service and postal department too.
All this takes guts, money and determination.
Not to mention high levels of skill.
When you buy from an independent label — the owner really does do a little happy dance!
Doesn’t that feel good? To be able to make someone’s day and help them survive and thrive whilst giving the planet a breather?
YES!
Eco-Fashion trailblazer Stella McCartney, said at the 2018 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, that we should all try to do “one thing”.
The impending climate crisis and fashion’s part in it is overwhelming for the individual.
It is impossible to become fully “sustainable” alone, but if we could all do ONE THING, it would be a start.
ONE THING Actions
- Buy from an independent label — the owner WILL do a little happy dance — maybe ask for a video for proof and post it on…
- TIK TOK! If you buy from the above designer makers, please share your story and inspire others to do the same.
- LEARN TO SEW — there is such a Joy in Making. If you don’t believe me, please check out Olympic Gold medal winning diver, Tom Daley. He knits! His homage to the Toyko Olympics in cardigan form, is a sight to behold.
Generation Z has the power to lead the change on sustainable fashion, just by being aware of the journey from field to fashion item, and adopting a “Do One Thing” mindset.
This weekend we are taking our daughter to look around universities. The irony is not lost on me that she wants to study Economics. My hope is that she will be part of a generation that creates the system change we so desperately need, but haven’t yet figured out.
Real change is possible through education, economics or more environmental awareness.
Do One Thing this week.
